Monte Alban - Oaxaca

This is the first ruins we have visited on this Mexican tour and it is interesting that this site is quite different than others we will encounter. Monte Alban – White Mountain -was first occupied by the Zapotecs around 500BC, however most of what we see is from the years 300 to 700AD. The population on the surrounding terraces was estimated to be around 25,000 people. The site itself was largely ceremonial with regular festivals for education and showcasing music and dance. It is surmised that this location was a sort of teaching hospital given the large numbers of stone carvings illustrating hundreds of illnesses and afflictions. Some sort of written text accompanies the illustrations that to this date has not been deciphered. It is also believed that sophisticated operations on the brain were done due to the recovery of skulls with precision cuts precisely where modern medicine enters the brain cavity. This site is unique as well in that over its entire history no human sacrifices were ever made. While what we see now shows stepped construction it was actually smoothly covered in white stucco and decorated with colorful frescos. The whole site was part of an astronomical observatory with one five sided building being the key element. What you see in the pictures is the commanding view the location has looking into three valleys and controls the entire region (no wonder that Cortez wanted this area for himself). The main plaza would be for music, dance and oratory competition and celebration while the ball court was used for recreation and conflict resolution. Think of this game like tennis without the racket – you struck the hair filled leather ball with foot, hip shoulder or elbow - the side sloping areas were in play – and spectators sat at either end cheering on the players, one side against the other although nobody died at the end unlike other pre-hispanic ball games.
Note the breeched birth in this stone carving – writing accompanies the tablet but is undeciphered. The somewhat dull building here is the observatory and it highlights the summer and winter solstice with light passing through the building. That we were here on the site for winter solstice is either good luck or good planning, I won’t disclose which.